The Lives and Adventures of the McCune Dickerson Family

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Mt Baker Climb


About 2 months ago I was approached by a friend at church with plans that the stake had for all of the priest age young men (16-18yrs) to climb Mt. Baker, somewhere in the vicinity of 60 people had expressed interest. My response, "I want nothing to do with it". Over the next few weeks a few phone calls about the trip came trickling in until it was established that I knew something about climbing. I was asked to be the leader of the group coming out of our building, about 12-15 folks. I was confident that number would come down and I agreed.

At 10,781' Baker is the northernmost stratovolcanoes of the Cascade range, due to the high annual precipitation the mountain is almost completely covered in glaciers. Our route traversing the Coleman and Demming glaciers is not a technical climb but required solid rope and rescue skills in addition to the basic crampon/ice axe business.

In my mind the climb was fraught with uncertainty. Would the group (down to 3 boys and 2 adults) physically be capable of the climb? Would they be able to acquire the skills to do the route safely? Would they have adequate clothing and shelter? Would the weather cooperate? While we did a lot to prepare by climbing the North Twin Sister and doing rope and rescue scenarios my doubts lingered. My uncertainty escalated as we arrived at our base camp at 7,000' in 50mph gusting winds, snow, sleet, freezing climbers, and collapsing shelters. As every one was going to bed I told them I was pulling the plug they were all freezing, hungry and wiped out... though after eating, and thawing in a warm dry sleeping bag my thoughts began to open again to the idea of climbing.

I woke at 4am to clear skies, later than I had hoped, but not to late to make and attempt. I wondered how the group would react to the call to climb after a difficult approach and 5 hours of sleep. Not a single complaint. We left our camp at 6:30, 6 hours later all of us were standing on top. For me the best part of the climb was not the summit, but a specific moment during the climb, it was when we attained the West ridge leading to the summit. We were still hours from our destination, but at that moment looking up I knew that we were going to make it, that was something to feel good about. For these green climbers it was "an experience of a lifetime" for me it was an opportunity to share something that I love, adventure, camaraderie, and the freedom of the hills.
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Sunday, June 22, 2008

Leavenworth


Last weekend our household met some up with some of our great friends, Joshua and Rebekah O'Halloran, in Leavenworth. I wouldn't say this is the best place to climb but it was and mostly is dry, a stark improvement on the conditions west of the Cascades.


The trip was Aurora's first official camp/climbing adventure, at 4 weeks old she showed no change in her typical eat, sleep, poop, routine but we are pretty sure that she had a good time.

The trip was pretty mellow. We were adjusting to family camping and Joshua had just returned from 3 weeks of guiding on Mt. McKinley in Alaska, summit included. I think we did a great job enjoying the experience and managing to get some climbing in.


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Monday, June 16, 2008

Thoughts from Aurora


"What is this thing they keep sticking in my face"

"I am not going to be caught making such a cheezy face"

"This warm watery sensation, it feels so...familiar..."


"I am only 4 weeks old and they are already taking me camping, what's with them?"
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Coleman Ski

Thursday Matt Schutz and I made for the hills. Over the last month I have been working with 3 young men and 2 leaders in the Young Mens orginization at church, we are planning a Mt. Baker climb this month. I wanted to get up on the glacier and take a look around at what was happening before guiding 5 green climbers up the mountain. I liked what we saw.
While it is hard to say what the "best" part of the day was, a highlight was a transition during our approach. We had left the treeline and were beginning our ski onto the Coleman Glacier and were in the thick of clouds. I was frustrated because spending time on a glacier in the clouds is not fun, the classic adage likens the experience unto being trapped in a ping-pong ball, and the consequence is no sense of direction. I turned on my music and tuned out. As we continued our climb we passed through this wall of white to emerge above the clouds into the most beautiful clear day. The contrast was incredible, especially after being trapped an overly-typical wet, cloudy, and rather dreary NW "Not-Summer".
The rest of the story is pretty obvious. Great turns, incredible views, and excellent company.


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