The Dream-Climbing Ice in Squamish

The pain of writing final papers really sets in when the winter rain gives way to pockets of cool crisp sunshine. After what was literally weeks of daily wet weather, the clouds cleared and cold arctic air poured across lower main land BC, just in time for finals. For almost 2 weeks temperatures rarely rose above freezing. With papers completed I was anxious for some adventure.

Ice climbing in the North West is traditionally inconsistent, thin, and often a dripping wet affair; as we were picking our route Kris, a local of 11 years, told me he had never climbed ice in Squamish. However, as the cold persisted I was sure that ice was forming.

We decided on a moderate WI 3-4 gully, A Scottish Tale, that if fully formed promised almost 1000' of climbing. However, after our 7am dawn start, and 1hr+ swim through the forest under brush, we arrived at the route to find another party moving up the first pitch. Rather than catch the brunt of the ice that would certainly be funneled down onto us, we explored some of the other smears we has seen out on the granite face to the right of our proposed route

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We discovered a beautiful line, The Dream, that looked "do-able" and just barely protectable. Kris led the first pitch on thin ice. Up delicate smears and through overhanging chandeliered corners, it was a brilliant lead- especially impressive Given Kris had not climbed ice in 6 years.

The second pitch was more straight forward ice climbing, steep and easily protectable, however I found it was quite he head game. My tools and crampons felt more like awkward metal than the natural extensions of my body that they once were. Despite the mental obstacles the climbing was beautiful, with a steep pillar giving way to narrow runnels of ice in granite corners.

Kris finished the climb with another incredible lead, a full 60 meter rope stretcher through a mixture of step curtains, thin runnels, and challenging corners. I was happy to follow and feeling more comfortable as we moved upwards and acclimated with the icy terrain. As we topped out it was clear we had gotten more than we had planned on for the day, but we had certainly gone ice climbing.

We rapped the route and packed as dusk fell; it would be another 2 hours before we reached the car. We arrived after crashing through thick undergrowth, falling over rock and logs hidden in the undergrowth and darkness, but we found adventure, challenge, and a great day in the hills.